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Tour de Ditch: Quinn Brett and Josie McKee climb seven Yosemite big walls in...
On October 6 through October 12, Quinn Brett and Josie McKee completed what they dubbed the "Tour de Ditch" in Yosemite Valley, which entailed seven Grade V-VI routes in seven days. They climbed El...
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One step at a time: A new route on the South Face of Brammah II
[The following is a report by Chris Gibisch about an expedition funded in part by a 2016 Mugs Stump Award. The award, a collaborative effort of Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.,...
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2017 Mugs Stump Award Opens for Applications November 10
25th Annual Alpine Climbing Award starts new Grant Cycle VENTURA, CALIFORNIA: From now through November 30, the 2017 Mugs Stump Award will be accepting grant applications from small climbing teams...
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Junko Tabei, first woman to summit Everest, dies at 77
When it came to climbing and social issues, Junko Tabei was not afraid to lead into uncharted territory. She made the first female, the first Japanese, and the second overall ascent of Annapurna III...
View ArticlePete Whittaker rope solos El Cap's Freerider all free in a day
Pete Whittaker recently became the first person to rope solo--all free--El Capitan's Freerider (VI 5.12d) in a day. In 2014 he was credited as the first person to flash the route in a single push over...
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Adam Ondra Frees the Dawn Wall
Adam Ondra celebrates after finishing the most difficult pitches of the El Capitan's Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d). [Photo] Heinz Zak and Black Diamond Equipment Until yesterday Adam Ondra was better known for...
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Ines Papert and Luka Lindic establish new route on Kyzyl Asker
This photo of the southeast face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m) shows Ines Papert and Luka Lindic's new route, Lost in China (ED WI5+ M6, 1200m), in red. [Photo] Ines Papert and Luka Lindic Ines Papert, of...
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Jim Detterline touched many lives as a climbing ranger in Rocky Mountain...
Jim Detterline in his element on the upper section of Kiener's Route on the East Face of Longs Peak (14,259'), July 2010. [Photo] Lisa Foster The climbing community surrounding Rocky Mountain National...
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Zangerl and Larcher make the third free ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan
On November 12-16, Austrians Barbara "Babsi" Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher made the third free ascent of Zodiac (VI 5.13d) of Yosemite's El Capitan. Brothers Alexander and Thomas Huber first free climbed...
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Public Lands and the Future of Advocacy: An Interview with Brady Robinson...
In Continental Divide, a 2016 book on the history of U.S. mountaineering, Hamilton College professor and climber Maurice Isserman wrote of how many Americans, as he does, "attach our dreams...
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Russians win Golden Axe for Moveable Feast on Thalay Sagar
The Russian team of Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov recently received a "Russian Golden Axe"--the Russian version of France's Piolet d'Or--for their first ascent of a route they...
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American Alpine Club to present five awards at its annual Benefit Dinner Feb. 25
Registration is now open for the American Alpine Club's Annual Benefit Dinner on February 25, 2017, in Seattle, Washington. Conrad Anker will be the keynote speaker. An AAC press release described...
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And the 2017 Mugs Stump Winners Are...
From Conrad Anker's The City and The Blade in Alpinist 38. Mugs Stump on the Spanish Pillar of Meru North (6450m) in 1988. [Photo] Steve Quinlan [The following information is a press release produced...
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First ascent of 'Titanic' adds another chapter to the Eiger North Face
The North Face of the Eiger (3970m) has a new hard route after a seven-day effort by Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewksi. From November 30 to December 6, the two men established Titanic (M5 5.10c A3...
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Huber, Schaeli and Siegrist complete the second ascent of Eiger's Metanoia
This aerial shot shows the magnitude of the Eiger North Face (3970m). Metanoia (VII 5.10 M6 A4, 1800m) takes a central line up the shadowy face. [Photo] Archive Metanoia More than 25 years after Jeff...
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Tom Ballard finishes the year with back-to-back rope-solo ascents
Tom Ballard makes the first ascent of Dust in the Wind (M8, 100m), Val di Fassa, Italy, while rope-soloing. [Photo] Tom Ballard Apparently Tom Ballard was just getting warmed up after his first ascent...
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Small Australian-Chinese team explores new ground in Tibet
The red line shows the approximate route of Standing Room Only (Russian Alpine Grade 5a, Scottish IV, M4, 650m) on the West Face of Xialongrezha (5678m). The first four pitches are obscured below the...
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Two Americans climb three new routes in Nepal's Rolwaling Valley
This past autumn Nik Mirhashemi and Mark Pugliese climbed two potential new routes and one confirmed new route on three different peaks on their first trip to the Himalaya. Nik Mirhashemi and Mark...
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Alpine Style: Two Austrians make the first ascent of Gimmigela East's North Face
This photo shows Gimmigela East (7005m) from a vantage point above the team's base camp. Hansjorg Auer wrote, "Our plan of putting up a base camp with a direct view to the mountain was shut down by...
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Indian Mountaineering Foundation lowers 2017 permit fees to promote select peaks
Rudugaira Peak (5819m) is one of the mountains being promoted with lower permit fees this year by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. [Photo] Courtesy of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation The...
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