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New Zealand Expedition Racks Up First Ascents on Taulliraju
June 25, 11 a.m. A tumult of debris thunders off Taulliraju on the third-to-last day of our expedition in the Santa Cruz Valley of Peru's Cordillera Blanca. We stand under the harsh equatorial sun,...
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Miranda Oakley Becomes First Female to Solo the Nose In a Day
On August 5, Yosemite climbing guide and longtime local Miranda Oakley became the first woman ever to solo El Capitan's Nose in a day (NIAD). She slapped the El Cap tree at 21:50, nearly three hours...
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New route on the East Face of Fastness Peak
Otago, New Zealand: For nearly twenty years, the East Face of Fastness Peak (2383m) has kept a lonely winter vigil overlooking the frosty expanse of Ruth Flat. Every year a plastering of snow and ice...
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Chris Van Leuven's "Going Home" Selected for The Best American Sports Writing...
Chris Van Leuven's story "Going Home," which first appeared on the cover of Alpinist 51, has been selected for inclusion in this year's The Best American Sports Writing anthology. Longtime Best...
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Speed, age barriers broken on Tetons' Grand Traverse
Nick Elson walks near the summit of Mt. Owen (12,928') while doing the Cathedral Traverse (5.7/5.8) a few days before he set a new record on the Grand Traverse (V 5.7/5.8, 17.9 miles, 12,444')....
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Tommy Caldwell onsights Mt. Hooker in car-to-car ascent with Adam Stack
On August 24, Tommy Caldwell and Adam Stack completed the first known car-to-car ascent of Mt. Hooker. The duo covered fifteen miles of trail before ascending Hooker's north face via Jaded Lady (VI...
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The Search for Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson: Missing on the Ogre II in...
Ogre II (6980m) above the Choktoi Glacier in Pakistan. [Photo] Courtesy of Kyle Dempster We will continue to add more information as it becomes available. Our thoughts and prayers are with the...
View ArticleSearch Called Off for Kyle Dempster and Scott Adamson
September 3, 2016: Since August 28, a search has been ongoing for Kyle Dempster (33) and Scott Adamson (34), two American alpinists missing on the Ogre II in Pakistan, last spotted partway up the...
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Alpinist contributor Maya Prabhu becomes a Banff finalist
Alpinist is pleased to announce that Maya Prabhu's feature article, "Notes from the Frontier," is one of the finalists for the Banff Mountain Book Competition's Mountaineering Article Award. Prabhu's...
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Madaleine Sorkin becomes first woman to send The Honeymoon Is Over (V 5.13c)...
Madaleine Sorkin leads a pitch on her September 7 redpoint of The Honeymoon is over (V 5.13c) on the Diamond of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. Sorkin became the first woman and...
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First ascent, new routes in Peru's rarely visited Carabaya
The Cordillera Carabaya of southern Peru moves in and out of public consciousness. In the past decade, expeditions to the region have been few enough to count on one hand. The most recent was a 2011...
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Marc-Andre Leclerc summits Torre Egger in winter alone; Pucher comes close to...
Canadian Marc-Andre Leclerc and Austrian Markus Pucher have been getting after it in Patagonia's austral winter in recent days, on solo objectives on Torre Egger (2850m), and Cerro Torre (3100m) and...
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New Route on Kyzyl-Asker: an Interview with Oleg Khvostenko
[This past July, Russian alpinists Oleg Khvostenko, Vasya Terekhin and Alexander Parfyonov established a new route on the southeast face of Kyzyl-Asker (5842m). Located in the Western Kokshaal-Too...
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Kim Schmitz remembered for resilience and brightness in the mountains and in...
Kim Schmitz was more than a climbing legend. He was a man who managed a smile no matter what life put him through. Bone-breaking falls in the mountains, avalanches, addiction, cancer and chronic...
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Great Wall of China: An interview with Denis Prokofyev
[Until recently, the Northeast Face of the Great Wall of China (5120m) in the Kokshall-Too massif of Kyrgyzstan had only one ascent. Dutch climbers Bas Visscher, Vincent Perrin and Bas van der Smeede...
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Dani Arnold races up two daunting solos in the Alps and Dolomites
Swiss climber Dani Arnold set two solo speed records in Europe this summer. On July 18 he free soloed the Via Carlesso (7a+ or 5.12a 650m) on Torre Trieste (2458m) in Italy's Dolomite spires in 1...
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Marc-Andre Leclerc frees Titanic on Torre Egger
Marc-Andre Leclerc of Squamish, British Columbia, made the first free ascent of Titanic (formerly 6a A2, now 7b M5 WI4 950m) on Torre Egger (2850m) over two days at the end of September with the...
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British alpinists climb a virgin north face to 7000-meter summit in Tibet
British climbers Nick Bullock and Paul Ramsden took full advantage of a rare permit in Tibet by climbing a new route--The North Buttress (ED+ 1600m)--in alpine style to the summit of Nyainqentangla...
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Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders make first ascent of Sersank Peak's north face
After twenty-nine years apart, the fabled duo of Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders reunited for another first ascent--the North Buttress (ED 1100m) of Sersank Peak, aka Shib Shankar (6050m) in the...
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New climbing grant for female first ascents
A new grant was just announced in September that is intended to provide more opportunities for women to pursue cutting-edge alpine ascents. Masha Gordon of the UK is the founder of The Grit & Rock...
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