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New Zealand Alpine Club Invents New Climbing Event
Castle Hill Basin, on New Zealand's South Island. The NZAC's first Bouldergaining race will take place there next month. [Photo] courtesy John Palmer The New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) will hold the...
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Piolets d'Or Committee Considers Ascents for 2014 Nomination
More than 70 ascents make up the Piolets d'Or's "Super Big List" this year. The collection of 2013 climbs, compiled by Claude Gardien and Lindsay Griffin (editor-in-chief of Vertical and senior editor...
View ArticleAlpinist Chad Kellogg Killed by Rockfall
American alpinist Chad Kellogg was killed by rockfall while climbing in Patagonia on Friday. Rolando Garibotti wrote on SuperTopo.com: Over two days Chad Kellogg and Jens Holsten climbed the...
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Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse
[The following report was courteously provided by Rolando Garibotti. Please visit Pataclimb.com for more information about the 2013-2014 climbing season.--Ed.] The Fitz Roy Traverse (5.11d C1 65...
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American Climber Charlie Porter Dies in Punta Arenas
Charlie Porter: 1951-2014 [Photo] courtesy Ralf Gantzhorn Charlie Porter, the scientist and famously private American climber who established a half-dozen of El Capitan's most stunning routes, soloed...
View ArticlePiolets d'Or Nominates Five Ascents
The Jury of the 22nd edition of the Piolets d'Or--comprising Catherine Destivelle, Erri de Luca, Karin Steinbach, Sung-Muk Lim, Denis Urubko, together with this year's president George Lowe--had the...
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Base Camp Police and Other Changes Announced on Everest
The Nepali side of Mt. Everest (8848m), where the national government will place nine security personnel to prevent conflict on the mountain. Government representatives cite a growing number of...
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Trio Follows Terray's Hardest Steps: Up Huntington in Winter
Hidden among the folds of the Alaska Range lies Mt. Huntington, pyramidal, elusive and hauntingly beautiful. To attain its summit, climbers must cross an ephemeral line. Making it back has always been...
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Avalanche Ends Season of Winter Attempts on Nanga Parbat
On the afternoon of Saturday, March 8, Polish climbers Pawel Dunaj and Michal Obrycki were avalanched some 400 meters down the Schell Route of Nanga Parbat during one of several attempts on the first...
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New Alpine Route Among Hardest in Oregon
The east face of Mt. Thielsen (9,183'), fondly known as "The Lightning Rod of the Cascades," where Tyler Adams and Steve Elder established Brainless Child (5.9X WI5+, 1,600'). "[D]oing a big new...
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Homeric Journey Ends on Unclimbed Revelations Summit
The Odyssey (6b A1 M7, 1100m), west face of Pyramid Peak, Revelation Mountains. One of five distinct mountain groups within the Alaska Range, the Revelations sit some 130 miles southwest of Denali and...
View ArticleA Dozen or More Sherpas Killed in Everest Avalanche
Newsflash: The following newsflash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers.Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more...
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Sherpa Deaths Raise Questions About the Future of Everest Guiding
An unidentified climber scales a final ladder in the the Khumbu Icefall, just below the Western Cwm in April 2005. A large avalanche off the West Shoulder of Everest killed 16 Sherpa men climbing...
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Nepal Govt. Urges Continuation of Everest Season
[Photo] Pavel Novak/Wikimedia Commons The Everest guiding season remains in limbo as commercial operators and employees, the Nepali government, the Icefall Doctors of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control...
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Patagonia 2013-14: A Return to the Meteorological Norm
Climbers near the summit of Colmillos Central, one of several small summits along the ridge extending north from Cerro Rincon. Photographer Herve Barmmasse, along with Martin Castrillo and Pedro Fina,...
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Wharton Climbs Black Canyon Grade VI Fast and Free
Josh Wharton during an attempted free ascent of Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.10 A3+ [5.13+]), a 13-pitch aid route in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Free attempts on the line have been few and...
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Erdmann, Roskelley Get 'Rotten Scrappy' on Unclimbed Kichatnas Face
The Erdmann-Roskelley NE Face (IV M3 70 degrees, 4,000') on the northeast face of Augustin, Kichatna Spires, Alaska. Benjamin Erdmann found no evidence of a second ascent after Michael Graber, Alan...
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Mayo, Wharton Cruise Huntington By New Route
The west face of Mt. Huntington (12,240'), showing (1) French (Northwest Ridge). (2) Harvard Route. (2a) Puryear-Westman Variant. (6) South Face. (8) Colton-Leach. (8a) Hough-Lewis Variant. (10)...
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Coloradoans Risk Massive Runouts to Top Johnson's North Face
Kevin Cooper heads up Mt. Johnson's North Face in the Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier. Over the following days, Cooper and partner Ryan Jennings would climb 4,000' of sparsely protected neve and rock...
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Liberty Ridge Search Comes to Tragic Conclusion
[Photo] Wikimedia Commons PRESS RELEASE Searchers located climbing gear and detected signals from avalanche beacons at the top of the Carbon Glacier at 9,500 feet in elevation during an extensive...
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