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An apology from Alpinist
After Alpinist 72 went to press, we found that reproductions we had printed of historical images from a 1970s-era magazine appeared to contain some offensive and anti-LGBTQA+ writing. As a result of...
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Lauren Shartell becomes the second US woman to send the Lightning
Lauren Shartell refines moves on the Lightning (M12+/M13-) in the Rigid Designator Amphitheatre, Vail, Colorado, the day before she redpointed the route on November 8. She's now the second US woman to...
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Luka Lindic and Ines Papert find big new routes close to home in Austria
Newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert on their new route Wolke 7 (aka: "Cloud 9," 5.13b, 380m), on the Hinteres Feuerhorndl, Reiteralm. [Photo] Klaus Fengler When newlyweds Luka Lindic and Ines Papert...
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Four expeditions are attempting the first winter ascent of K2: Alex Gavan...
UPDATE, January 15: Alan Arnette reports that a new all-time winter high point has been attained--7800 meters--by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks leaders Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi...
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First winter ascent of K2: 10 Nepali/Sherpa climbers summit together
[UPDATE: As the world began celebrating the success on K2's summit earlier today, Sergi Mingote (Spain) fell while descending from Camp 1 and has died after climbers tried to help him in Advanced Base...
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American Alpine Club's 2021 Benefit Gala and Awards will be a free virtual event
Ron Kauk on top of Uli Biaho, 1979. [Photo] Courtesy of the American Alpine Club As the worldwide COVID-19 pandemic continues, the American Alpine Club's Annual Benefit Gala and award presentation...
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Remembering Cesare Maestri (1929-2021)
Cesare Maestri [Photo] Courtesy of Giulio Malfer Cesare Maestri, one of the most legendary figures in climbing history, died January 19 at age 91. The most famous questions surrounding his life have...
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JP Mohr Prieto, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and John Snorri are missing, presumed...
K2 (8611m) is pictured here in summer. The Abruzzi Spur--the route used by all the expeditions this winter--follows the right-hand skyline. [Photo] Svy123, Wikimedia Commons Since the 10-person team...
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Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll about his solo traverse of...
Overview of Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll's solo Moonwalk Traverse (Fitz Roy massif, south to north: 5.11, 50° snow/ice, 4000m). [Image] Courtesy of Rolando Garibotti, Patagonia Vertical Borrowed gear...
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Lor Sabourin sends five-pitch trad route Cousin of Death (5.13+)
The approximate line of Cousin of Death (5.13+, 5 pitches) in northern Arizona. [Photo] Lor Sabourin On Nov 29, 2020, Lor Sabourin made a no-falls free ascent of the trad-climbing testpiece, Cousin of...
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2021 Grit and Rock Award recipients announced
A jury panel chaired by Victor Saunders recently announced the recipients of the 2021 Grit & Rock Award, a grant intended to bolster female participation and leadership in exploration and...
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American Alpine Club announces 2021 Cutting Edge Grant winners
Jess Roskelley, a 2018 Cutting Edge Grant recipient, is pictured here on Baba Hussein (5800m), Pakistan. [Photo] Kurt Ross, courtesy of the American Alpine Club The American Alpine Club (AAC) has...
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Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Jon Griffin complete big (and wide) new line...
This copyrighted topo shows the route of La Chaltenense (5.11+, 500m) on Fitz Roy. The playlist of songs on the left corresponds to the pitches where they were played. Patagonia guidebook author (and...
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American Alpine Club moves forward with its Climb United Initiative with a...
The American Alpine Club (AAC) announced the formation of their Climb United initiative in February of this year. In March, Alpinist participated in a meeting of the Climb United Route Naming Task...
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American Alpine Club announces Catalyst Grant for BIPOC and LBGTQIA+ people
The American Alpine Club (AAC) is now accepting applications for its new Catalyst Grant, a program intended to support underrepresented groups, including BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ individuals. The...
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Alpinist partners with Korean publisher to launch Alpinist Korea
[Photo] The first two issues of Alpinist Korea. Alpinist is proud to announce the recent partnership with Mountain Journal in Seoul, South Korea, to launch Alpinist Korea--a magazine that prints...
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Cerro Huinay (1430m) in Chilean Patagonia Gets First Ascent
The topo for Futa Chao (1000m, 5.12 A2+) on Cerro Huinay, in Chilean Patagonia. [Photo] Pancho Herrera. From February 11 to 25, 2021, 1430-meter Cerro Huinay was climbed by four Chilean climbers:...
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Arizonan Trad Testpiece East Coast Fist Bump (5.14a) Gets First Recorded...
Brittany Goris teching her way through the crux of East Coast Fist Bump (5.14a) at The Waterfall, in northern Arizona (Apache, Hopi, Pueblo and Hohokam territory). [Photo] Erik Andersen On Jan 29,...
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Brette Harrington and Dylan Cunningham Make the First Ascent of the Northeast...
Brette Harrington gaining the arete on the 5.9 R ninth pitch of Just a Nibble (5.10- M6 R, WI5, 500m), in Banff National Park during the first ascent of the northeast face of Mt. Niblock. [Photo]...
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Ryan Driscoll, Justin Guarino and Nick Aiello-Popeo Send The Medusa Face on...
Justin Guarino on an M6 A1 pitch on day four of the first ascent of the Medusa Face on Mt. Neacola. [Photo] Nick Aiello-Popeo From April 18-25 2021, Ryan Driscoll, Justin Guarino and Nick Aiello-Popeo...
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