The Everest Debacle: Full Report Pending
Newsflash: Since April 27, a disagreement above Camp II on the Lhotse Face of Everest (and the events that followed) has generated a series of reports and speculation. The incident involved a group of...
View ArticlePeter Doucette and Silas Rossi Link Thin Smears in Ruth Gorge
The prime conditions on eastern aspects in the Ruth Gorge, result of heavy snow- and rainfall last year and cold temperatures this spring, enabled another new line, this time on a 7,500-foot satellite...
View ArticlePeter Doucette and Silas Rossi Link Thin Smears in Ruth Gorge
route-shot The prime conditions on eastern aspects in the Ruth Gorge, result of heavy snow- and rainfall last year and cold temperatures this spring, enabled another new line, this time on a...
View ArticleBerbeka, Kowalski Missing After Broad Peak First Winter Ascent
On March 5, Polish climbers Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek completed the first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8047m) in expedition style. On the descent, Bielecki and...
View ArticleNewsflash: Russian Dies Attempting New Route on Everest
Newsflash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more...
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NPS Releases New Wilderness Anchor Policy
The National Park Service (NPS) released Director's Order #41 earlier last week, finalizing their fixed anchor policy in designated wilderness areas. Currently, 44 million acres of "wilderness" fall...
View ArticleAlexey Bolotov's Body Returned to Russia
"I do not know how to write this," Denis Urubko wrote to Russian climbing website Mountain.ru. "Today, May 15 at 5:00, Alexey Bolotov was going to descend on a rope.... On the edge of a sharp rock has...
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Two New Routes Cap Off Ruth Gorge Season
Late last month, Todd Tumolo and Dusty Eroh completed the first ascent of Neve Ruse (V AI5 R/X, 4,000') on the relatively untraveled North Face of Mt. Bradley (9,104') in Alaska's Ruth Gorge. On May...
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Romanians Claim Summitless FA in Annapurna Sanctuary
This month, Romanian climbers Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean quietly made the first ascent of Gandharva Chuli (6248m). Located in the Annapurna Sanctuary of Nepal, the snowy peak is only...
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Americans Top New Route on Unfrequented Alaska Range Glacier
Mt. Laurens (10,042') on the southwest fork of the Lacuna Glacier in the Alaska Range. The routeline shows the Northeast Buttress (V A1 AI4 M7, 4,650'), put up by Mark Allen and Graham Zimmerman May...
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Alaskan Finishes Two-Decade Project, Avoids Intercession
Broken Tooth (9,050) from the Coffee Glacier, Mooses Tooth Massif, Alaska. On May 30, Jay Rowe and Peter Haeussler climbed a six-pitch variation to the West Ridge (left-hand skyline), completing a...
View ArticleNearly A Dozen Killed in Nanga Parbat Terrorist Attack
Please read the follow-up to this preliminary report in the June 28, 2013 NewsWire.--Ed. As many as 20 gunmen dressed in paramilitary clothing attacked the Diamir Base Camp on Nanga Parbat (8125m)...
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Facing Reality on the Ruth Glacier
Denali (20,320'), showing The Reality Face (AI5, 5,300') up the eastern aspect of Reality Peak (13,100'). Jens Holsten, Seth Timpano and Jared Vilhauer established the line May 21-24. [Photo] Jared...
View ArticleNanga Parbat Victims, Alleged Attackers Identified
A politically motivated attack on the Diamir Base Camp of Pakistan's Nanga Parbat (8125m) on Sunday left 11 dead and the global climbing community in shock. While details of the murders continue to...
View ArticleComplicated Rescue on Leaning Tower Photographed
On June 25 an emergency call was sent by a solo climber who took a fall while climbing the West Face route (5.7 A2+, 700') on Leaning Tower in Yosemite. The climber injured his lower back, but was...
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Iconic Polish Climber Artur Hajzer Dies on Gasherbrum I
Initial reports have been confirmed that Artur Hajzer, part of a once-strong tradition of Polish climbers summiting 8000m peaks in winter, perished during his descent of Gasherbrum I (8068m) on...
View ArticleTomasz Kowalski's Body Recovered on Broad Peak
Polish climbers Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8047m) on March 5, another milestone in a long line of Polish successes on...
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Mugs Stump Winners Trade Pakistan for AK
The Angel (9,265'), Revelation Mountains, showing a 1100-meter free rock route on the east buttress established by Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman.[Photo] Graham Zimmerman After canceling their...
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Iranian Trio Perishes Descending Broad Peak
The southwest face of Broad Peak (8047m). On July 16, three Iranian climbers summited by a new variation, taking a direct line from Camp III on the normal route to the summit. During their descent,...
View ArticleNewsflash: Canadians Finally Nab FA of K6 West
Newsflash: The following newsflash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more...
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